Located north of central São Paulo, conveniently en route from Guarulhos–Governador André Franco Montoro International Airport to Bela Vista, Mocotó features the cooking of Chef Rodrigo Oliveira, and despite casual environs the Restaurant has made believers of locals as well as tourists to the point of landing on several “Best of” lists including S. Pellegrino’s Top 50 in Latin America.

Originally opened in 1974 by Chef Oliveira’s father, but under the direction of Rodrigo and his wife since 2002, it is along Avenida Nossa Senhora do Loreto that guests will find the brightly-lit space frequently at capacity, a no reservations policy doing nothing to harm business, though service staff with no English skills, no WiFi and a particularly rude hostess/cashier make visiting without Portuguese fluency less than ideal.

Unquestionably a neighborhood favorite, the focus on northeastern Brazilian Cuisine yielding a comprehensive menu of plates large and small, many guests will opt to begin with housemade Cachaça or Cocktails, though several Brazilian Beers are also offered and seem popular alongside starters such as fried Coalho Cheese with thick Molasses on the side or Pork Rinds featuring a lot of flesh beneath Skin that shatters like glass.

Ideal for sharing, but constructing a menu such that solo diners can order smaller portions of many plates, it is folded inside malleable Tapioca that Beef cooked in Cream matches nicely to housemade Chili, ground Meat faring equally well inside of lightly fried Pastry offered alongside finely chopped Pickles.

Continuing with small crocks of Mocoto’s eponymous Soup plus Beans with Meat and Rice, the former brightened by Vinegar and Herbs that soften Cow’s Foot and Cassava, complimentary sides of Farofa and pureed Manioc also perform well with the latter even more impressive as part of “Carne Seca Escondidinhos” that eats somewhere between Stew and Soufflé beneath its golden dome of Cheese.  

Told not to pass on Tapioca Dice, each crispy Nugget yielding a springy center, there was also no avoiding Dessert that began with Espresso topped by housemade Cachaca Cream and continued with Rapadura Ice Cream served as a DIY Sundae alongside a bottle of Molasses.

Not done yet, another round of Tapioca cooked in Espresso and stuffed with Dulce de Leche highlighting the versatility of an ingredient uncommonly used outside of Pudding back in the United States, it was finally “Cartola de Engenho” that completed the evening, each bite a complex balance of sweet and savory with Cinnamon Crumble adding texture and perfuming the palate.

muito bom lugar. sempre lotado. boa comida e ótimas caipirinhas. comida nordestina com classe e preços relativamente altos. mas uma grata surpresa na zona norte da cidade. realmente tem classe e qualidade em local fora do eixo elitista sulista. grata surpresa de sabores e belas experiências. vale a pena vir. aos domingos se prepare para a espera!